2012 Travelling Alone in Greenland: Rainy Disko Island @ 旅行は私の人生なのだ

Disko Island (Qeqertarsuaq) is a large island in Baffin Bay, off the west coast of Greenland.

It's the second largest island of Greenland and one of the 100 largest islands in the world.

The Greenland name "Qeqertarsuaq" mean "The Large Island".

The port and the town with the same name "Qeqertarsuaq" lies on the southern coast.

It's my trip today. However, the sailing to Disko Island is about four hours.

It's also not good that the weather today is bad. So, don't forget your pill for motion sickness.

Qeqertarsuaq-City-Map

(This map is from：http://mappery.com/Qeqertarsuaq-City-Map)

It's said that Eric the Red paid the first recorded visit to Disko Island as a base for summer hunting and fishing.

It owns Mineral deposits and fossil finds. Besides, the geological formations is also the feature of this place.

There are numerous hot springs on the island.

Because Disko Island is so different from other places in Greenland, the local says that Disko Island ia not a part of Greenland main island.

The book "北緯69°的夏天．格陵蘭" published by a Taiwan man who joined the workcamp to Greenland, describes the comment from the local about this island: "There is nothing worthy of visiting here, unless you have too much time".

Actually, Disko Island is a popular place for hiking and I'm quite interested in the thermal spring on this island.

After all, the thermal spring is not so common in Greenland.

Except for Disko Island, the only one place you could find the spring is at Uunatoq which is approximately 40 miles south of Qaqortoq in South Greenland.

Though I also want to go to South Greenland, my vacation is not so long and the ticket is another issue.

Therefore, it would be nice if I could find the spring in Disko Island.

Unfortunately, today is really a terrible rainy day. I'm not lucky anymore.

Even though it's raining, I still decide to walk the track toward the thermal spring.

After arriving at the port, I walk northeastward along the main street.

According to the information, the thermal spring is in the north of the Arctic Stations.

By the way, the mounatin landscape on this island is attractive for the hikers. If you don't like it, you may feel bored during you short stay here. Due to the large area, it's recommended to spent 3 to 4 days for hiking.

Just as I reach the station, I'm not sure whether I should follow the next instrction or not.

Is it safe to walk northward alone? I don't find any sign around here.

P.S The tracking information provided by Lyngmark Tours

Hiking to Østerlien (Homothermic Springs)

Hiking trip to Østerlien From the Arctic Station the hiking trip turns towards north. After a half an hour you reach "Orpinnguit" (beautiful little trees), with a number of warm springs and a beautiful view over the sea and scenic nature in the vicinity. The hike continues over the basalt landscape to the Eqqanaarfik Mountain.

Qeqertarsuaq Hiking Map

(You could find the same map in Lonely Planet Greenland & Arctic Circle)

For the security reason, I change my way eastward and follow the yellow track toward the Elephant Rock.

Passing the campsite and crossing a bridge over the stream, you will find the yellow rocks for hiking to Elephant Rock and Kuannit.

It's pretty sad to walking in the rainy day.

Except for the inconvenience of photographing with an umbrella, the scenery is not so good as in the sunny day.

Besides, the track becomes muddy and wet.

Around 1:30, I find the saddle in the half way. The elepant rcok should be near.

Crossing that saddle, the scene is fine.

According to the information, the Elephant Rock is in the shape of an elephant whose trunk drinks of the ocean.

Well, the formation in the front should be the Elephant Rock.

Maybe I' not so imaginative. I don't think this formation looks like an elephanat.

Anyway, no matter the rock formation is the elephant rock or not, I finish my lunch here and decide to return.

After all, I have to spend the same time walking back.

The town of Qeqertarsuaq is boring with only one museum close to the port.

The place I could hide is the space in the supermarket.

It's about three hours before the return ferry and other tourists also wait here.

In summary, it's a terrible day for me. Due to the rain, I only took a few pictures.

By the way, there is a glacier, called Lyngmarksbræen or Lyngmark Glacier, on Disko Island.

This glacier is close to town and could be reached on a few hours' walk.

I don't know how many hours are in the range of "a few", but the Lyngmark Glacier is the only place where you could ride a dog sldge under the mightsun in summer.

Around six o'clock, it's another long sailing toward Ilulissat. Of course, the pill is very important if you want to enjoy the cup noddle in the ferry.

Before reaching Ilulissat, the weather is still terrible and so is the sea with icebergs.

It's pretty tiring to take the four-hour ferry twice and walk in the rain for three hours.

Well, this is the Arctic.

I remember the days in Iceland were also rainy most of the time.

Therefore, you have to made all the preparations for all kinds of situations and then pray for a good luck.

P.S. Commandments for hiking

01) Don't start off on long walks without some previous training and planning

02) Let someone (the tourist office or the place you are staying at) know where you are heading and when you expect to be back

03) Pay attention to the weather and the weather reports

04) Follow the advice of experienced hikers

05) Be prepared for bad weather and accidents, even on short walks

06) Always remember a map and a compass