After I experienced all the best things about the ice, I wonder what could I do for the rest days in Ilulissat.
The reason why I stay at Ilulissat for a week is that I worry about the changable weather in Arctic Circle.
If the weather is bad, I could arrange my tour in other days.
However, I'm so lucky that every tour was finished safely.
Since I get nothing to do, I decide to explorer the place where is not so popular to most of the tourists.
My itinerary today is visiting the small fishing village, Rodebay (Oqaatsut).
The only ship to Rodebay is running on Thursday served by Disko Line.
Actually, this types of transportation is for the locals and is not suitable for the tourists.
Because the ship will arrive at Rodebay at 8 o'clock in the morning but return to Ilulissat at 7:45 in the evening.
Thus, it means that I have to stay at such a small village for 12 hours.
Oqaatsut is a settlement located 22.5 km north of Ilulissat and only had 46 inhabitants in 2010.
The settlement was called Rodebay by the Dutch whalers back in the 18th century.
He named the trading post probably after the colour of the sea in the bay after a whale was killed.
The village is so small that there is only one all-purpose Pisiffik store near the harbor.
Except for taking the ferry, the 10-hour long walk from/to Ilulissat is also possible, but I don't think I could walk for such a long distance by myself.
You may wonder what the features of this small village are.
Actually, "Small" is the only feature of this fishing village.
There are a few of houses, colorful houses, though you could also find houses in Ilulissat.
There are also Greenland dogs and fishing boats, though you could find more in Ilulissat.
Even there is only one restaurant in Rodebay.
However, this "little settlement" represents the life of the Greenlandics who live in other small village similiar to Rodebay.
My only thought for visiting Rodebay is to find the interesting subjects for photographing, such as the dried fishes on the shelving.
Maybe I will feel bored and find nothing interesting, I visit this small village at least.
From the harbor, I walk slowly around the village.
Due to the few population, the houses are not so crowded as those in Ilulissat.
To another side, you may also see the icebergs.
I'm not so surprised because I've seen a lot.
Among the whole area of the village, there are some blenches located on the spots with nice view.
Someone may find that everything in Rodebay is not very special and could be found in Ilulissat.
The only difference might be the atmosphere. It's quiet with few tourists and few locals.
I think the lovely Greenland dog I meet is also bored as me while I walk along the shore nearby the icebergs.
The puppy lies down on the grass and lets me touch his belly.
It's interesting but my hand get a fishlike smell.
Oops, does the dog eat fishes? Well, it seems resonable because the store doesn't sell the pet food.
The only problem I have is where I could find the water to wash my hand.
While walking around the church, another dog is barking for the unknown reason.
His bark is so sad that I feel funny and thus I record a movie to share with you.
After looking around for about two hours, the only place I could stay inside is the restaurant "H8".
Although the weather is fine and sunny, it's still cold dut to the wind.
Before the return ferry arrives, I have to find a comfortable place for passing the boring time.
Otherwise, I have to walk back to Ilulissat instead.
The only restaurant is Rodebay could be recognized easily for the big "H8" on its roof.
I'm the first guest in the lunch time.
The meal served depends on the ingredients today unless you make a reservation in advance.
My main dish is the Greenland Halibut with shrimps, vegetables, rice and the white source.
I think this should be my first time to have my lunch at a very slow pace. (In order to kill the time)
Other guests arrive later and their meals look rich.
I'm not so interested about all the food they have, except the "Seal Skin".
The chef says that the seal skin tastes like the chewing gun, but I think these guests don't like too much chewing gun. Therefore, I take a picture after they leave the restaurant. It looks like a thick fish skin.
You may wonder why didn't I try one. Oh no, I don't want to try it at all.
I walk back to the harbor after the long lunch time.
There is still plenty of time before the return ferry.
I get nothing to do and stay at the board walk for a while.
If there is also a ferry in the afternoon, it would be wonderful. Unfortunately, it's not possible.
A duck (or a bird?) is hung on the top of the shelving.
Wow~ it looks like a prisoner put to death.
For about an hour, I continue walking around the village.
The dogs are asleep in the afternoon. Myabe I should sleep somewhere as they do.
Just when I'm sitting on the blench for a nap, a surprising thing happened.
A man in the house opens the window and says: Come In, Coffee...
I'm not so sure that I confirm it twice. After all, I've never been invited to the local's house.
Yes, he wants me to drink a coffe in his house.
While I enter the house, I suddenly realize that it's the birthday party for her 10-year-old daughter.
They used to prepare foods for their friends who will come here later, such as the crab soup, roasted musk ox, coffe and the birthday cake.
Looking around the house, it's a normal Greenland family. Simple but warm.
The facilities they have are television, radio, heater and lamps that are all related to the electricity brought by the modernization. As for the toilet, it's only a toilet-shaped tub with the yellow bag just as I found in the restaurant H8 and the campsite in Ilulissat.
I think that is the difference between the small village and the big town.
Their friends come here continously, and then enjoy the food and chat in Greenlandic.
Of course, I could not speak and understand their language and they seems not so good at English.
Thus, I just watch their inetraction quietly. It's already better stay outside against the cold wind.
Maybe this house is not big, it's warm whether in temperature or the replationship.
The best thing of the house in Greenland is that you could open the window and breath the fresh air.
In Taiwan, our houses like the jails. The windows with iron gratings is the security against theves and other danger. The tall buildings are numerous and crowded. You could not enjoy the beautiful scene outside the window as this Greenland family do.
Through the window, you could see the icebergs on the sea nearby.
The pictures of the family members occupy the walls in the living room.
They chat and laugh happily. That is the feeling I've never felt before.
Suddenly, I'm glad that I visit this small village today, or I might not have such a nice experience.
Since it's the birthday party of the little girl, I also give my Taiwan banknotes to her as the gift.
I didn't give the money to my friends in Taiwan but I think these kinds would be interested in the banknotes from the country far away from Greenland.
Finally, the time fro the return ferry is coming while I listen to their chatting.
It's raining now and the ferry is one hour late.
If I was not invited by this friendly Greenland family, it woule be very terrible waiting the ferry in the outside.
Thank you!
It's really a surprise in my ordinary day.
However, it's not recommeded to do the trip like I did.
I could not promise that you will experience what I experienced today in this small village.
Actually, it's possible to join the tour to Rodebay.
It takes about five hours and you will leave in the afternoon.
References：
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oqaatsut
留言列表
Travel Overseas (21)
